Jeanne Hallee - Paris Articles from NY Times

Hallee's Foulards Please Americans.

Two-in-One Costumes Are the Most Popular Type in Paris Openings.

Youthful Tailored Suits



These have hip length or sleeve length straight jackets and contrasting bodices.



Copyright, 1933, by The New York Times Company. By Wireless to The New York Times.



Paris, Feb. 20-Jeanne Hallee is an old firm under new management, that of Mlle. Anna, formerly with Worth. The style and type of the Hallee collection are different from that of former years, more truly Parisian and youthful, suitable for younger Americans. A particular success this season has been with the three-piece suit and the two-in-one costumes, consisting of a youthful looking draped gown of figured foulard, over which may be worn for the morning a full-length coat of navy blue rep. with a figured crepe bodice revealed at the open front of the coat. The narrow tube silhouette is adhered to in the lines of the coat, which is usually unbelted and trimmed, if at all, with only vertical bands of pin-tucked self-material.

Most popular with American buyers have been two-in-one costumes of the following type: The dress is of foulard, with a bright red ground figured in dull purple. The deeply bloused back of the bodice continues into the sleeve drapery, caught only at the wrist. This sleeve is slashed from shoulder to wrist. The front of the skirt overlaps deeply toward the left side front, leaving one free edge topped with a bow of silk. When a full-length costume coat of navy blue rep is added to this skirt a panel of foulard is hooked over on the outside of the coat at the opening at the left side front, while the front of the coat is cut away entirely above the waist line, revealing an oblong vestee of figured silk. The coat sleeves are full length. This gives a definite example of the most popular type of garment brought out at the February openings, combining chic with practicability and economy.

Tailored suits, particularly youthful in treatment, have hip length or sleeve length straight jackets trimmed with bands of embroidery or fancy trimming of self material about the lower edge. A contrasting georgette bodice is straight of line, semi-fitted and attached to the skirt at the low waistline. The skirt is wrapped about the hips snugly and overlapped at the left front. There is no belt, the sheer bodice and attached skirt of a worsted material forming together a semi-fitted frock of youthful lines. Freedom and grace are afforded through the fact that the suit bodice is usually softly gathered at the neck and also gathered where it is attached to the skirt, though no suggestion of bloused effect marks the straightness of line.

Suits are mainly reps, in high colors, including Lanvin green, snuff, tortoise-shell shades, light grays and beige.

Afternoon and evening dresses show clustered fullness at each side of the front, with a flaring movement, or across the front and sides.

Dancing frocks for young girls are of black taffeta, fashioned with off-shoulder decolletage in the mid-Victorian style, the long bodice to the hip line draped softly to outline the figure, though not tightly; the skirt gathered very full at the front and sides, with extra gathers introduced on each side of the front, where it is corded, a few inches below the top. These frocks are usually sleeveless. A portion of the bodice or a deep lace bertha covers the top of the arm. Clusters in front in bright orange or jade relieve the sombre tone. More formal evening frocks are draped horizontally about the figure, outlining it closely from bust line to hem. The drapery is released either at the back, in huge bustle loops, or at the side front in cascading points.





Paris Shows Modes For Next Season

Straight, Long Skirts in Majority--Blue Prevailing Color--Oriental Designs Favored.

Copyright, 1923 by The New York Times Company. Special Cable to The New York Times.



PARIS, Aug. 4-The American dress buyers' season here is now at its height. Two important houses, those of Patou and Hallee, gave exhibitions for the press this afternoon and evening and during the next two days nearly all the important houses will reveal the secrets of women's wear for next season.

At Patou's show this evening the guests found a surprise awaiting them. While nearly all the other houses which have held exhibitions have shown straight, long skirts, Patou's skirts are full and shorter.
http://www.gbacg.org/costume-resources/original/articles/dressmakers.pdf
These skirts are bordered with fur, such as astrakhan in brown and grey and an abundance of embroidery, Persian, Chinese and other Oriental inspirations. The materials are unique and exclusive. They have been woven for Patou from his own drawings.

There are three Persian patterns. One is a brocade, taken from the design of an old Persian screen. Another was taken from a seventeenth century Chinese lacquer screen of Coromandel. The third subject of Patou's inspiration was a Persian lamb which he found among ancient manuscripts of the Grand Mogul in the National Library. He also uses crepes of the Byzantine period.

These are exclusive materials made by Bianchini. Patou's day colors are brown and gray, and an abundance of the other houses are launching blue he almost ignores it, using green, gold and metal colors.

Jeanne Hallee has a beautiful and essentially wearable collection. She, like the others, favors the straight line, but has drapery at one side or at the centre of the back. Trains adorn her evening gowns, but the day dresses are straight and often bordered with fur. Rough golden seal is frequently used for this purpose, and the dress is then embroidered.

Hallee uses long, tubular, crystal beads, sequins, silk metal thread and chenille for her embroideries, which are strongly influenced by Chinese design. Her full length and three-quarter coats break away from the straight line by showing a modified flare from the knee. The belt is often absent, the waist line being marked by horizontal drapery or the fit of the gown. Blue is a prominent color in the collection, especially a hyacinth shade, that tones with mauve. Shaved lamb trims many gowns and the waist line is set very low.